I made this very pink dress with a longing for the French Second Empire dresses and the world of Jane Austen.
SIZES 10 TO 12 / S TO M – The dress is worn tight at the top, and rather ample at the bottom.
This dress is composed of two kinds of silk fabric: for the bottom, a plain pink fabric (4 panels of fabric laid vertically 4 x 36 cm x 70 cm, or 2 panels, 2 x 36 cm x 140 cm) then another fabric with three dimensional flowers on the chest, (the panel is laid horizontally and measures 36 cm by 96 cm with 4 cm for the seam allowances included).
1- THE LOWER PART OF THE DRESS
First of all, on one side, stitch together four panels of the plain pink fabric (4 x 36 cm sur 70 cm) or 2 panels (2 x 36 cm x 140 cm) on both sides. In the second case, cut at the top as to make a skirt.
Iron out the inner side.
Fold the hem twice, and stitch along the hem.
2- THE TOP
I got some inspiration from a shirt of mine, with which I drew a pattern that fits my measures. Available here (without the seam allowances): Kimono Top Pattern.
Fold in two a fabric panel of 96 cm long (92 cm tour of the waist and the seam allowances) and 36 cm large.
Cut along the pattern, while leaving out at least 2 cm for the seam allowances.
Put aside the parts that have been cut off near the armpits (1 big part on one armpit and two small ones on the other). Afterwards, they will embellish the collar.
Lay over the pattern by using pins and wonder clips.
A vertical side (where the fabric panel is folded) should not be cut. Consider it as stitched in advance.
Attach the two faces by stiching the two shoulders.
Sew the side which is not naturally joined.
3- THE COLLAR
At the level of the collar, cut a 15 cm long opening, much deeper than what you see on the photo.
The 3 bits of fabric that have been put aside need to stitched one to the other : Bit 1 stitched to Bit 2 stitched to Bit 3.
The left part of this new element is to be attached to the left side of the 15 cm opening, then the right side of the new element, to the right side of the opening.
The whole thing will be a little fantasy that hangs slightly and enables your head to pass through the collar.
4 – JOIN THE TOP AND BOTTOM
Pin a needle at the bottom, in the middle of the top.
This is on this central point that the gathers of the bottom part will be based.
Fix the base according to the middle. For the balance and beauty, a panel of 34 cm large is placed in the middle, accompanied with a panel folded on either side (that is 17 cm large on the right and on the left), rather than two usual panels of 34 cm placed of the right then on the left.
Gather as you like it. Here on the front, the gathers are large, measured for some balance.
Use pins to fix the measures.
Join the lower and upper parts together with wonder clips.
It should look like this:
Stitch on the inner side.
Gather the back of bottom as you like it. I have gathered the fabric a lot in the middle.
On the inner side, sew by following the pins and removing them little by little. On the outter side the stitches will be invisible.
5- THE FINISHING OF THE TOP
To finish the top, I have added a facing (based on the pattern of the top) that is stitched to the sleeves and colar, but to ease the ironing, and avoid visibles stitches I have chosen to not sew the facing over the intersection between the upper and lower part.