I made this dress thinking of apron-like dresses. A friend of mine told me it looked more like an dress belonging to Heidi of the Alps.
SIZES M to L (10 to 12)– The dress is worn tight at the top and ample below the chest.
It is composed of three kinds of silk fabric:
– for the bottom, in the middle some blue pink ochre fabric (4 panels of fabric turned vertically, upwards, 4 x 36 cm x 70 cm long, put together two by two, or 2 panels of fabric, 2 x 36 cm x 140 cm),
– added to that, another piece of orange fabric with three dimensional flowers (95 cm x 36 cm) divided into 4 parts: 2 for each side of the bottom (70 cm x 4,5 cm x 2 sides), one to cover the chest, ( at the top, the piece is laid horizontally and measures 95 cm x 18 cm with 3 cm included for the seam allowances), and a fourth part (25 cm x 18 cm) and its lining placed under the chin.
– and at last, a third striped fabric for the straps (26 cm x 1.5 cm) qnd their linings.
1- THE LOWER PART OF THE DRESS
a) First of all, stitch, on the length, a panel of the ocher blue fabric with the other. (2 pannels of 36 cm x 140 cm).
Fold in two, on the width to make a quasi square.
Cut off at the top on the width so as obtain two squares (front and back of the bottom of the dress).
b) Take the fabric that is 95 cm by 36 cm (here, orange with three dimensional flowers) and divide it into 4 bits: 2 for the sides (70 cm x 4,5 cm x 2 sides) of the bottom, 1 for the chest, (at the top, the fabric part is laid horizontally measures 95 cm by 18 cm with 3 cm included for the seam allowances) and a 4th bit (25 cm x 18 cm).
Or else, the division can be performed little by litlle, to avoid mistakes. Like here, where the whole fabric has been sewn on a side of the trunk square (70 cm x 70 cm).
Then, the orange fabric has been folded in two vertically.
Only one part that measures 70 cm by 18 cm is kept.
The leftover is put upside to create the top afterwards.
The side of the orange strip is folded twice, then stitched…
… then, cut it off once more, in two, vertically.
This strip is attached to the other side of the square.
Then, the second square is stitched to the two long orange strips.
Fold the hem twice, iron and stitch it.
2- THE TOP
The bit that has been put aside will make the top.
Fold the strip in two (95 cm sur 18 cm) and detach the rectangle that measures 25 cm x 18 cm.
Fold the two ends of the strip and stitch them so the fabric does not fray.
Fold the strip in two, fix the closing of the strip with stitches on the right.
Stitch a lining on the right and left of the rectangle up to 0.5 cm of the lower part only. Do no sew the two lengths.
Pin the rectangle to the center of the strip.
Get the straps ready (26 cm long x 1 cm large) with a lining.
Sew the straps to the ends of the rectangle.
Sew all along the top of the rectangle.
Sew the length at the bottom of the rectangle to the strip.
With pins, cover the part where the strip and rectangle join, with the lining.
Stitch on the front.
Attach the other ends of the strap to the back of the strip.
Sew the strap ends once, then a second time by moving the straps in this way.
Close the strip by sewing all along.
VIEW FROM THE OUTER FRONT VIEW FROM THE OUTER BACK
VIEW FROM THE INNER SIDE
3- ATTACH THE LOWER AND UPPER PARTS TOGETHER
Join the top and bottom of the dress.
With wonder clips, gather the fabric as you like it to fix your measures.
Here is what you should see on the front side:
Sew the upper and lower parts together.
5- THE FINISHING OF THE UPPER PART
I have not really added any facing, but I have sewn a bias tape on the part where the upper and lower parts are stitched together.