Trucs-et-Astuces-Placer-un-biais-1

Here is my first dress. I have chosen the easiest pattern of a book.

The dress is riddled with beginner’s flaws but there’s one thing I am happy with – the attachment of the bias tape.

If you wish to preserve the length of your dress as much as possible, attaching some bias tape could be a solution.

This video is pretty clear. The stitching is partly visible as the sewing machine is used to attach the tape at the end.

 

As for me, I chose to have an invisible seam. To do that, you need to sew by hand.

First step, like in the video:

  • apply the top right side of the bias on the right side of the fabric
  • hold the bias with pins
  • sew with a sewing machine all at once.

Second step, just like in the video but stitch by hand:

  • return the bias tape on the wrong side of the fabric.
  • maintain with pins to prevent the fabric from moving.

 

  • sew on the wrong side with an invisible stitch. Stitching has to be very discrete on the right side. Use some thread that has the same colour as the main colour of the fabric.  Only a little stitch should appear on the right side, as close as possible to the bias.
  • however, on the wrong side, the part that should not be seen, the sewing will be stretched so as to limit the stitches on the right side.
  • First, to hide the thread, insert your needle from underneath the tape. Get the needle out to the surface and stitch onto the fabric by making a tiny stitch on the right side.
  • Come back to the wrong side, inside the bias tape. Stretch your thread inside the tape. 1 cm should be reasonable.
  • Then take it out to the surface and sew a tiny stitch on the right side.

 

This is the neat way. Here on this photo, the stitching is not  always so nice.  I was too impatient and did not apply the method all the time. As you can see, the thread is  partly visible on the wrong side.

Trucs-et-Astuces-Placer-un-biais-3

 

A nice video, to help finish the attachment:

 

Once it is finished, iron the bias tape.

 

You can buy some bias tape at Amazon or Rascol(cheaper and more choices but in French only).

The pattern of the dress is taken from pages 27 and 78 of one of my favourite books by Minako Hayama ( Ima kitai fuku ga tsukureru kimono rimeiku sutairu bukku ).

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