When you reach a certain level, it is much more stylish to not let people catch a glimpse of the reverse of the unlined fabric.
It is laborious to line the dress everywhere, lining the whole outfit gnaws some time and some fabric. Yet, some strategic spots deserve the investment, like the reverse of the top of a dress and the tips of sleeves.
The pattern is taken from pages 54 and 55 of the book by Yasuko SHIBUYA, Oshare na kimono – wafu rifoomu (おしゃれなきもの・和布リフォ-ム ISBN-13: 978-4777806409). Available on Yesasia for 15,50€.
Step 1: Cut off the lining with a width slightly larger than the part of the sleeve you intend to cover, let’s say: real width + 3 cm.
The internal stitching should not be visible when you roll up the sleeves, so they will be visible only on the reverse of the lining.
Step 2: Then you have two options:
Option 1) “Stick” the upside of the lining on the upside of the dress.
The reverse of lining is visible, over the upside of the dress.
On the reverse of the lining, stitch the lining on the edge of the sleeve, with a seam allowance of 1 cm-0.5 cm.
Once the lining has been turned inside the dress, that is to say the reverse of the lining “stuck” on the reverse of the dress, the stitching will then be invisible. This is what I have done with the above white and red dress.
Option 2) Or you can do the opposite: “stick” the reverse of the lining to the reverse of the dress.
The upside of the lining is visible, over the reverse of the dress.
Stitch the lining that will be a little folded on the tip of the sleeve.
The stitching will then be visible like for the pink dress which is underneath:
Step 3: Now, you need to fix the top of the lining to the middle of the sleeve.
Option 1, the best way to me)
On the pink dress, you can see the stitches very well on the lining but not on the upside of the sleeve. To make the stitches as discrete as possible, I have stitched by hand. It is some kind of invisible stitching, if you look from the outside.
Start stitching from the reverse of the lining (not on the upside of the lining like I did), sew on the edge and shape small lines (at least 1 cm long).
Take your needle out to the upside of the dress and fix the lining by stitching tiny dots on the upside. Do it on the hues that best correspond to the thread.
Avoid making many dots.
Like for the white and red dress, fix the top of the lining with the help of a sewing machine, with 1 cm folded inside the lining.
In that case, there was already a demarcation, that was part of the original pattern. So the new visible stitches will not disturb the harmony since you will stitch over a line that already existed.
That is over! You can admire your hard work.
The pattern is taken from pages 37 and 38 of the book by Minako Hayama, Jitsubutsudai katagami kimono rimeiku bukku (実物大型紙つきーきものリメイクブック – ISBN-13: 978-4522430873). Available on Yesasia for about 19€.